The Lasithi Plateau and Gournia

The Lasithi Plateau is an agricultural area located just south east of Agios Nikolaos at an elevation of about 2800 feet. The orchard crops are mostly apple, pear and almonds. Since Minoan times this has been a productive area and when the Venecians conquered the island they installed many windmills to irrigate the land. At that time about 20000 windmills were in operation, however now there are less that 5000 remaining. At the time most of the windmills that operate in summer are for the tourist industry, but there are incentives in place to return the area to wind power, rather that run the generator for the pumps that have taken over the task. The wind mills that work for the tourists are still an impressive sight.

 

In the middle of the plateau is a small town where we had intended to walk about and maybe enjoy some lunch. Amazingly the entire town's streets we being repaved and all the paving stones were pulled up. Mud everywhere so a walk about was out of the question. We slowly drove around the muddy streets and upon leaving town, stopped to photograph an old man and his donkey. He actually came out of his house by the front door with his donkey! When he saw Shelagh and her camera he turned his back to us, understandibly, bloody tourists!

The drive was nice, a cloudy cool day and up at that elevation bordering cold. Time to head back to the coast and our hotel for a dip in the pool and a nice chilled glass of Boutari white.

After pool time and a bottle of wine it was time to think about dinner. Shelagh had read in the Lonely Planet guide book of a restaurant popular with backpackers because its inexpensive meals. We love a good bargain so off we went. Up the street a bit, then turn left and into a small alley. Along the wall little tables are set up. The alley is lit with patio lights and emit a warm yellowish glow, the tables have cloths and the menus are ready to be perused. We sit down at the last available table and start looking at the menu. A waiter approaches and suggests we put the menu down and come inside to see what Mama has cooked tonight. Before us lies a feast of traditional Greek fare; Kleftico, mousaka, goat shanks, calamari, rice and potatoes. I have never had goat shanks so my desision was made, Shelagh chose the mousaka. We were asked to return to our table and soon our dinners were served on platters all done up beautifully, with some rice, Greek salad, potatoes and our choice of entree. Wine flowed freely and the food was amazing and inexpensive. Mama done good! Sadly no pictures.

Walking back to the hotel we suddenly heard a loud voice saying, "Hey Kouwenhoven!" I turned around and there was Jan Verhees, who we met earlier at the hotel with his wife Joni. They were at Nico's pub and the Karaoke was in full swing. We went in and enjoyed it into the wee hours with locals and tourisis alike singing their hearts out. What a riot! Good beer and Raki, the local hooch like Grappa. A slight headache in the morning was cured by a good "Full English" breakfast in the hotel dining room.

 

 

Jan Verhees, with his rich voice is a natural and for the next nine years has entertained many visitors to Crete on boat cruises and hotel lobby get togethers. Today they still live in Crete and we are in touch once in a while.

Jan and Joni Verhees. Beautiful people who have chucked it all in and are living the dream. Power to you, my friends.

The last day of our car rental had arrived and we decided to do one more outing to the ancient ruins at Gournia. This archaeological site was once a Minoan palace complex and was excavatad in the early 20th century by American archaeologist Harriet Boyd-Hawes. All the foundations are still in tact and if you imagine the wooden structures on top of them you will see the enormity of the place. The admission fee is small and goes to general upkeep. We walked the narrow streets through the ruins where this place stood some 3500 years ago in the bronze age. The trade was weapons, pottery and ship building, and the complex includes a road to the coast where the shipyard is located. The excavation completed in 2014 by the Universty of Buffalo with participation from the USA, Canada and the EU.

 

 

 

 

 

When we returned to Agios Nikolaos, we contacted the car rental company and were told to just park the car somewhere near the hotel, leave the keys with the front desk and they would come and get it later. Crete is so laid back, no worries.

With the car now gone from our lives we were left to explore and enjoy Agios Nikolaos for two more days. The city has a seawall to walk along. It streches from Elounda to the marina. As we were strolling along the water we came upon a little pizza joint perched on the hill overlooking the marina. We enjoyed our last pizza on Crete here with an ice cold beer. Awesome view and warm Mediterranean breezes.

A little souvenir shopping and strolling through the weekly market, just enjoying the city, stopping for a snack here and there, and gaining weight! (I speak for myself)

Jan and Joni asked us if we could all go for a nice dinner on our last evening on this holiday and we gladly accepted. They had chosen a small family run restaurant in town. The food was great, but the homemade wine a bit premature, it was still fermenting, and produced the nastiest hangover the next morning. Within hours of getting up we were at the airport, with pounding heads, trying to eat a sandwich. When the announcement came that our flight was boarding 30 minutes early because all passengers were present and accounted for! You gotta love Crete!

 

 

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Rethimnon

Since we only had the rental car for a week and we had only a couple of days left we decided to hit the road again. This time to Rethimnon, halfway across the island. Again along the main highway but a much shorter drive than to Chania. We arrived in town after an uneventful drive and found a parking lot near the town center. From the parking lot to the harbour is only about a ten minute walk and we were soon upon another beautiful view of where the town meets the sea.

Walking along the waterfront and checking out the restaurants along the way you see the daily specials on display at each eatery. One of the the best looking specials showed some "Gambas", large prawns from the Med. Shelagh loves prawns so the decision was simple. I ordered a different fish dish but sadly it had just sold out. Oh well, specials of the day then. Very expensive, rather a lot more than we like to spend, but we were here to enjoy ourselves. It still blows my mind that these bottom feeders demand such a high price compared to a nice fish. Although lunch tasted great it was terrible value for the money. Way too overpriced. Lesson learned.

We wandered trough the streets and took in the sights, not as pretty as Chania, but still so very Mediterranian.

 

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Ierapetra, Mirtos and Chania

Ierapetra, translated means "Sacred Stone". It is the largest city on the south side of Crete. For those who prefer a quieter stay on the island, away from the young and boisterous, this is a good destination.

Marble paved boulevard

The town is a port city with trade to the African continent. It is also an agricultural centre with its southern exposure. The growing season is lengthened with countless greenhouses dotting the countryside. We arrived here in the mid morning, parked the rental car and began wandering around town. There is a boulevard along the water's edge paved with marble flagstone which leads from the town centre westward to a modest hotel zone. The old centre is quaint and welcoming with many little shops and tavernas, however we noticed that temperatures here are quite a bit higher than on the north side of Crete. The harbour is flanked by an old fort with large stone buttresses and ammo storage areas. We enjoyed the views for a while, but then the heat became too much and we had to move on.

Some people can just sunbathe all day

Just a short drive west of Ierapetra lies the village of Mirtos. It's a very quaint peaceful little town with a few hotels and rooms to let. The waterfront is lined with restaurants and tavernas. Here we stopped for another walk through town and lunch. The food is great no matter where you choose to go, and we had some tasty Greek appies and beer. While we were enjoying our lunch, three ladies went into the water and bobbed about for quite some time, their conversation was in Dutch, although I could not really make out what they were talking about, jst as well, not my business, but I was envious of their fearlessness in the water, I have a terrible sea creature phobia.

Our lunch stop in Mirtos

Three Dutch ladies bobbin'

Room for rent

 

 

Just loved this little restaurant

 After a scrummy lunch we continued westward. I had a circle route planned that would eventually take us back to Agios Nikolaos via the mountains of Lasiti. But as we progressed up the hills along roads that had no guard rails it became clear the we had to turn back because that's when Shelagh's phobia kicked in. Narrow roads along kliffs are not her strong suit, in hind sight, maybe she should have been the driver... Carefully I found a place to turn the car around and we went back to town the way we came.

At some spots you just have to go for a quick dip

Our ride, patiently waiting

I stayed in the water as long as I could handle it, just too creepy

 Along the way back down the mountain we came upon a war memorial. Europe is dotted with war memorials, most towns and villages have one dedicated to the locals who perished during the first and second world wars. This memorial is different. Located at Viannos, it is modern and strikingly haunting. Silhouettes of falling people made of stone have lists of the perished. There is a small chapel like building where a narration in various languages plays and explaines the story of this site.

 

 

 

 

 Back at the hotel we relaxed by the pool with a lovely bottle of chilled white wine and some snacks. We were already planning our next adventure with the VW Polo. Chania beconed.

 After a good nights sleep and a hearty breakfast we made our way to Chania, on the west side of Crete. The landscape changes to more green and lush, but still quite arid. In the west the influence is more Venetian, the way the harbours are designed and the architecture relflects this too. It's a bit of a haul across the island, but with a few stops along the way to take pictures it's quite a fun drive, besides we're on "Island Time" and in no hurry.

Along the way, a cloudy day

Cretan beach goddess

 When we arrived in town we followed the signs to a parking garage near the center of the old town. Left the car there and started walking the narrow streets. Little shops selling anything from really nice stuff to touristy trinkets, and then suddenly you come upon the harbour. A long breakwater ending with a lighthouse comes into view and all you can really do is look at the beauty of it. The harbour is lined with restaurants and the hosts outside coax you over to view their daily catch. We find a cozy little place and make ourselves comfy, as usual we opt for a table full of meze instead of the fish platter of the day. Add a bottle of wine and life is perfect. Our waiter offers to take our picture and we hand him our camera. "Nice camera" he says and starts running off with it, funny guy, he walks back laughing and takes our picture. He was completely blown away by the fact that we drove to Chania from Agios Nikolaos to have lunch. He had not left Chania his entire life! We met a nice retired couple from England, the guy did not say much so I can't remember much about him, but the woman chatted with us and she shared that she had spent her entire life as a travel writer, travelling all over the world, and had just recently decided to retire and get married. Her reason for getting married was to force her to slow down and enjoy life with a partner. Interesting lady.

Chania harbour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This restaurant was set up in a WWII ruin.

 

 After lunch we walked off the wine and headed for the newer marina to look at the boats of lucky people sailing the Med. All nicely moored stern to shore, the yachts have gang planks going from the cockpit to shore. That's the life! From very posh Beneteaus to modest boats, they all share the same place and they all share the same experience. On the boulevard a man with his horse and carriage waits for his next fare. The sun is shining and this day is a ten!