Ierapetra, Mirtos and Chania

Ierapetra, translated means "Sacred Stone". It is the largest city on the south side of Crete. For those who prefer a quieter stay on the island, away from the young and boisterous, this is a good destination.

Marble paved boulevard

The town is a port city with trade to the African continent. It is also an agricultural centre with its southern exposure. The growing season is lengthened with countless greenhouses dotting the countryside. We arrived here in the mid morning, parked the rental car and began wandering around town. There is a boulevard along the water's edge paved with marble flagstone which leads from the town centre westward to a modest hotel zone. The old centre is quaint and welcoming with many little shops and tavernas, however we noticed that temperatures here are quite a bit higher than on the north side of Crete. The harbour is flanked by an old fort with large stone buttresses and ammo storage areas. We enjoyed the views for a while, but then the heat became too much and we had to move on.

Some people can just sunbathe all day

Just a short drive west of Ierapetra lies the village of Mirtos. It's a very quaint peaceful little town with a few hotels and rooms to let. The waterfront is lined with restaurants and tavernas. Here we stopped for another walk through town and lunch. The food is great no matter where you choose to go, and we had some tasty Greek appies and beer. While we were enjoying our lunch, three ladies went into the water and bobbed about for quite some time, their conversation was in Dutch, although I could not really make out what they were talking about, jst as well, not my business, but I was envious of their fearlessness in the water, I have a terrible sea creature phobia.

Our lunch stop in Mirtos

Three Dutch ladies bobbin'

Room for rent

 

 

Just loved this little restaurant

 After a scrummy lunch we continued westward. I had a circle route planned that would eventually take us back to Agios Nikolaos via the mountains of Lasiti. But as we progressed up the hills along roads that had no guard rails it became clear the we had to turn back because that's when Shelagh's phobia kicked in. Narrow roads along kliffs are not her strong suit, in hind sight, maybe she should have been the driver... Carefully I found a place to turn the car around and we went back to town the way we came.

At some spots you just have to go for a quick dip

Our ride, patiently waiting

I stayed in the water as long as I could handle it, just too creepy

 Along the way back down the mountain we came upon a war memorial. Europe is dotted with war memorials, most towns and villages have one dedicated to the locals who perished during the first and second world wars. This memorial is different. Located at Viannos, it is modern and strikingly haunting. Silhouettes of falling people made of stone have lists of the perished. There is a small chapel like building where a narration in various languages plays and explaines the story of this site.

 

 

 

 

 Back at the hotel we relaxed by the pool with a lovely bottle of chilled white wine and some snacks. We were already planning our next adventure with the VW Polo. Chania beconed.

 After a good nights sleep and a hearty breakfast we made our way to Chania, on the west side of Crete. The landscape changes to more green and lush, but still quite arid. In the west the influence is more Venetian, the way the harbours are designed and the architecture relflects this too. It's a bit of a haul across the island, but with a few stops along the way to take pictures it's quite a fun drive, besides we're on "Island Time" and in no hurry.

Along the way, a cloudy day

Cretan beach goddess

 When we arrived in town we followed the signs to a parking garage near the center of the old town. Left the car there and started walking the narrow streets. Little shops selling anything from really nice stuff to touristy trinkets, and then suddenly you come upon the harbour. A long breakwater ending with a lighthouse comes into view and all you can really do is look at the beauty of it. The harbour is lined with restaurants and the hosts outside coax you over to view their daily catch. We find a cozy little place and make ourselves comfy, as usual we opt for a table full of meze instead of the fish platter of the day. Add a bottle of wine and life is perfect. Our waiter offers to take our picture and we hand him our camera. "Nice camera" he says and starts running off with it, funny guy, he walks back laughing and takes our picture. He was completely blown away by the fact that we drove to Chania from Agios Nikolaos to have lunch. He had not left Chania his entire life! We met a nice retired couple from England, the guy did not say much so I can't remember much about him, but the woman chatted with us and she shared that she had spent her entire life as a travel writer, travelling all over the world, and had just recently decided to retire and get married. Her reason for getting married was to force her to slow down and enjoy life with a partner. Interesting lady.

Chania harbour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This restaurant was set up in a WWII ruin.

 

 After lunch we walked off the wine and headed for the newer marina to look at the boats of lucky people sailing the Med. All nicely moored stern to shore, the yachts have gang planks going from the cockpit to shore. That's the life! From very posh Beneteaus to modest boats, they all share the same place and they all share the same experience. On the boulevard a man with his horse and carriage waits for his next fare. The sun is shining and this day is a ten!

A rental car, Vai and Mochlos

After our disappointing experience with the bus we started looking at renting a car. After some research we found that Budget had the best deal and the most comprehensive insurance package. Now we had wheels for a week. A new Volkswagen Polo with AC. Yay! We drove the car to the hotel, just a few hundred meters away and checked the supplied map of Crete for destinations. Our first trip would go to Vai, on the east side of the island.

Quite a calm day at Vai

Rocky outcrops along the shore

The palm trees at Vai

A Vai goddess among the trees

With a full tank of gas we set off. Through town to the one and only major highway that traverses the island from east to west. Driving the winding highway is as easy as pie and when you come up to a slower moving vehicle they start driving on the shoulder to give you room to pass. 

We arrived in Vai, without any problems. The road signs are in Greek and English. Vai is not really a town but more a park. It was first made popular in the seventies by some British fellows, and soon became a hippy hangout with tents all over the place. The resulting mess caused the officials to declare the area a park and all the hippies were sent packing. Now it has become a very popular place to go from nearby towns and in the hight of summer it can be difficult and expensive to find a place to park. Even a toilet can cost you a couple of euros. There are some restaurants and vendors selling trinkets and ice cream. The menus posted at the restaurants looked uninspiring so we gave them a skip. Besides after a huge breakfast at the hotel, the thought of food did not really surface.

Ruins

You wish these stones could talk

Carving detail

Vai has the only natural palm forest in the Mediterranean which produces a wonderful shade along the beach. It is no wonder that it is such an attraction for tourists and locals alike. When we were there in September it was relatively quiet and we spent some time exploring the area. We came upon an old ruin where we found stone carved pieces that were just lying around. They were once part of the building and I had no idea how old this ruin was. It sure looked like it was a nice place once upon a time.

Some more images from around Vai

We decided to return to the hotel along the north coastal road west bound. This used to be the only way to go, but with the new highway in place this old road is now for those with plenty of time on their hands, like us. We came upon a town called Sitia, which at the time looked a little sad and tired, hopefully since we were there someone has been kind to this place. It has an airstrip which was not in use. The town needed a shot in the arm, the location is great for a tourist mecca. Further along lies Mochlos, where we stopped for a beverage.

Choppy sea

Me wondering if I could live here

Fishing boats at anchor

This island was a swimmer's destination

It's wine o'clock

Bougainvillaea

It's a cat's life

Mochlos

Dinghies on the shore

Pretty streets

The swimmers island

The view to the east

We drove down to the village and found a parking spot quite easily. Mochlos is a small village, just a few houses and a little shop that sells the essentials. A quaint, lazy place in the sun, great to while away a hour or two. Restaurants dot the waterfront and little fishing boats bop in the bay at anchor. A cool breeze flows from the sea and we found the perfect little terrace for a glass or two of chilled white wine, and some olives.

As we let the breeze flow along our faces we saw a young man get into the water and he swam to a small island just across the bay. It took him about 20 minutes and the sea was quite choppy from the wind. We were a bit worried at first, but it soon became clear that he had done this many times. His rhythm never slowed as he worked his way through the waves. Once on the island he walked along the beach and disappeared from view. There are a couple of little buildings on the island, I suppose they are used by farmers or goat herders sometime during the year.

Our hotel room "Lesbos" just below the umbrella

Me chillin'

And one of the locals getting a drink

Back at the hotel we got comfy in our bathing suits and went to the pool for happy hour. A swim, some wine and some new friends. Jan and Joni Verhees from Holland were at the pool and we had a great time. We are still in contact with them now. More about them later.